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The climate has blessed a Japanese Pinot Noir town, but now the town is worried about its weather

The gradual warming of temperatures has encouraged locals in Yoichi, a small Japanese town, to experiment with the delicate grape varieties over the last two decades.

Yoichi is well-known as the birthplace of Nikka Whisky. It was thrust into the limelight of viticulture five years ago when the 2017 Nana Tsu Mori Pinot Noir, produced by the local Domaine Takahiko Winery, appeared on the Noma wine list in Copenhagen.

Resellers in Japan are now selling a bottle of this prized wine for $560. It was once priced at $30. The town of Hokkaido, located in Japan's northernmost isle, has also produced other wines that have won accolades. It now boasts about 20 wineries, and 70 vineyards.

Farmers in Yoichi are worried that the Pinot Noir grape will be difficult to grow here, even before its reputation is accepted by the mainstream. Recent rapid temperature increases and more rain could occur during harvesting season.

Takahiko Soga founded his winery, Domaine Takahiko in 2010.

Soga once said that he thought Yoichi’s temperatures were similar to those in France’s Alsace Region, but they then reached levels comparable with Burgundy which produces some the world’s finest Pinot Noirs.

He said, "I thought that we had reached Burgundy-like temperatures this year, but we've actually been closer to Loire and Bordeaux levels."

Climate change affects many farmers in all parts of the world. However, it is only a blessing to a few. Pinot Noir is one grape that is especially sensitive to climate change.

The grape is known for its elegant, transparent wines. It can grow in temperate to cool climates. However, because of its thin skin, and tightly packed clusters, it is extremely sensitive to too much rain or sun.

Birds are causing you to be agitated

The Winkler Index classifies the climates of wine-growing areas around the world. It is calculated by adding the daily average temperature above 10 degrees Celsius or 50 degrees Fahrenheit from April to Oktober.

Hokkaido is generally regarded as having a cool climate, the Region I of the Winkler Climate Groups.

According to the Japan Meteorological Agency, Yoichi has been slipping into Region II since 2023. This temperature zone is more often associated with medium-bodied wines like Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yoichi's summer of this year was the hottest since records began. The average temperature between June and August was 22.1 degrees Celsius, which is about 3 degrees above the average over the last three decades.

The longer and warmer summers in Yoichi increase the risk that Pinot Noir grapes will ripen prematurely, resulting in unfavorable sugar levels and low acidity. The fruit is more susceptible to rain damage due to higher temperatures.

Rain damage has affected the Pinot Noir grapes of Yuichi Hirotsu's vineyard, a multi-award winning winery owner. His family was among the first to plant this classic red in the town back in 2006.

Hirotsu also says that he had never seen a heavy rain fall at the start of the autumn on another variety, the Austrian Zweigeltrebe.

He said, "It was a long time to pick Zweigeltrebe because we had each damaged grape removed one by one."

The winegrowers of Yoichi are also concerned about the increase in birds that want to eat their grapes. They blame this trend on climate change and say it has led to a reduction in nuts and seeds available for birds in nearby mountains.

Yoichi is plagued by this scourge, and the sound of fireworks to scare it away is always present.

Keisuke Saito, Yoichi's mayor, formed a "wine agreement" this year with the historic Pinot Noir community Gevrey-Chambertin. The two groups will exchange knowledge on production methods.

As temperature and humidity control becomes increasingly difficult, Domaine Takahiko built an underground cellar that can store 100 barrels.

Farmers believe that it will be important to try new varieties of Pinot Noir and other grapes.

"Pinot Noir may not be the ultimate aim for this town." "We might find Merlot or Syrah in the future," Soga said. ($1 = 153.0900 yen)

(source: Reuters)