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Onitsuka Tiger, the 'Kill Bill" sneaker brand from Asics, is slated for global expansion.

Asics, the company that makes its Onitsuka Tiger sneakers famous for their yellow and black color scheme, has announced a global expansion in order to capitalize on the booming demand of retro style shoes. However, analysts say this ambitious plan could threaten its margins.

Onitsuka, represented by the sneakers worn by Uma Thurman, in the hit 2003 movie "Kill Bill", and a Bruce Lee version, which is tied to the martial artist, will be opening flagship stores in Europe, as well as the United States.

The weakened yen has led to a shopping frenzy in Japan. The sales grew by around a third during the quarter between January and March. This resulted in a profit margin that was the highest of all Asics businesses at about 40%.

Mark Chadwick is an analyst at Smartkarma who warns that the new structure of the brand could put its margins in danger.

He said that the "exceptional margins", which are a result of becoming a stand-alone business, may be harder to maintain, because it incurs costs. The business is also at risk due to its "capital intensive" strategy, opening flagship stores.

Onitsuka Tiger, a nearly 80-year old brand, traces its roots to a shoe company founded in Kobe, Japan, in 1949 by Kihachiro Onitsuka. However, the Mexico line, featuring the iconic stripes, was only introduced in 1966 after products like basketball shoes.

In that decade, Phil Knight, the co-founder of Nike, met with officials from Onitsuka and began importing the running shoes produced by the company in the United States.

In 2002, Asics launched Onitsuka Tiger again in Europe. The classic design was revived as a fashion label.

Ivan Su is an analyst with Morningstar. He said: "Onitsuka Tiger benefited from the consumers' preference for minimalist shoes over maximalist shoes that have lots of cushioning."

In recent years, the popularity of Onitsuka Tiger has soared, thanks to a renewed interest in retro-inspired trainers.

FATIGUE WITH BIG SNAKER DOMINANCE

Asics announced on Wednesday that Onitsuka Tiger, a brand with a value of $20 billion, would be transferred via a?split' to OT Group. This is a fully-owned subsidiary.

The company stated that there are no plans to list. Analysts believe that the spin-off will make it easier for Asics if necessary to change its ownership structure.

Chadwick stated that "the move does unlock value, but it lays a foundation for the market's recognition of OT as a fundamentally new business with fundamentally new economics."

Onitsuka Tiger, which has almost 200 stores in the world, plans to add more this year. These will be located in countries like China, Italy, and South Korea. The company plans to return to the U.S. in February next year with a new store in Los Angeles. This will be three years after it closed a New York-based outlet.

Glenn McMahon is a Los Angeles-based fashion and retail brand consultant.

McMahon stated that "the brand benefits from... increasing consumer interest in other sneaker brands, and growing fatigue with Nike and Adidas dominance."

RUNNING FOR GLOBAL GLOBAL EXPANSION

Designs such as pink cherry flowers highlight the Japanese roots. The company sells a premium line of "Nippon Made", which is handmade in a small village in western Japan.

Kaito Hikino, an American student at a college, said that Onitsuka Tiger shoes have "the vintage feeling with the novelty for the U.S. Market and the exotic vibe."

He purchased a pair Mexico 66 TGRs for his girlfriend during a recent family trip to Japan. Most of his female friends in the United States also own Onitsuka Tiger shoes.

The brand has stores on swanky streets such as London's Regent Street or the Champs-Elysees, in Paris.

Shintaro Umeda, an analyst at Nomura Securities, said that "we think some prior investment will be required", including opening directly managed shops in major U.S. Cities and strengthening advertising.

Onitsuka Tigers is always mentioned as one of the must-dos when looking at online lists for things to do in Japan. This was said by Brazilian Ana Lebl who visited Japan after graduating high school in America.

"I found them online around?a year back through resellers, but they were always much more costly," said Lebl who purchased a pair Mexico 66SD trainers in Tokyo.

Kenya?Matsuo, an analyst at SMBC Nikko, said in a recent note that "we would expect steeper growth if the company accelerated its store openings compared with its current cautious approach."

Global heavyweights like Nike, Adidas and Puma have their own minimalist shoe lines.

One analyst stated that fashion is fickle, and Onitsuka could lose its footing.

Su, of Morningstar, said: "We've seen a number of companies do something similar to what Onitsuka Tiger did with the Mexico 66 Model and fashion trends are beyond their control."

The Onitsuka Tiger has been popular for some time, but we believe that this might fade over the next few years, which will affect margins.

(source: Reuters)