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Fashion brands slow down on green promises

Few fashion brands invest to reduce emissions from the supply chain

Suppliers struggle with low-carbon technology

Brands want to share the costs of production, not just loans

Tahmid Zami Tahmid Zami

Researchers, companies, and industry insiders claim that there hasn't been much done to move this forward in the supply chains of major textile producing countries such as Bangladesh, India, and Cambodia.

Todd Paglia is the executive director of Stand.earth in North America, a non-profit environmental advocacy group.

About a third (32 brands) of 42 brands that were surveyed for a Stand.earth Report in 2025 will have reduced their emissions by 10 percent compared to baseline years, while 40 brands will see their emissions increase.

The study found that only a small fraction of major brands provide funding to reduce emissions in their supply chain, which puts financial pressure on factories and other suppliers who lack the financial power to switch to cleaner processes.

Fashion Revolution, an organization that campaigns for sustainable fashion, released a report in 2024 stating that about half of major fashion brands around the world have set scientifically-based emission reduction targets.

While many brands are still not making visible efforts to fund their climate plans or support suppliers in decarbonising, others have made some.

"What we see is a dangerous disconnection," said MohiuddinRubel, former director of Bangladesh’s garment manufacturers' associations and now director at Denim Expert Ltd.

The FINANCING Gap

By switching to energy-efficient equipment, using renewable energy sources and using low-emission transportation, apparel manufacturers can reduce emissions at the factory level.

A report by the consulting firm FSG stated that in Bangladesh, the garment industry hub, 83% emissions come from the burning of fossil fuels on site, such as natural gas to generate electricity or to run boilers for heat and steam.

According to a report by the Apparel impact Institute (AII), an organization that promotes sustainable investments, many suppliers are reluctant to make the large capital investment required to replace gas-based heating systems with energy-efficient technology, such as heat pumps.

AII says that Bangladeshi fashion manufacturers face a $4.8 billion investment gap to reduce emissions by half between 2030 and 2020.

Clothing manufacturers in India and Vietnam face similar challenges to reduce their dependence on fossil fuels for heat and steam production, which is used in the washing, dyeing and finishing of fabrics.

According to Bangladeshi supplier Rubel, about half of the brands that Stand.earth surveyed offered some kind of support. However, most of this involved audits and assessments of carbon footprints or small-scale projects.

He said: "This is just a drop of water and doesn't address the industry-wide, systemic transformation that is required."

Abhishek Bhasal, the head of sustainability for Arvind Limited, an Indian textile supplier, says that brands should also offer long-term agreements with suppliers and premium prices to encourage them to invest in cleaner manufacturing.

BRAND ACTION

Stand.earth's report stated that only six brands had reported offering project financing to suppliers for their decarbonisation efforts. H&M is one of them, a Swedish retail giant that has helped 23 smaller suppliers invest in low carbon tech.

Kim Hellstrom is the senior sustainability manager for H&M. She said that brands need to accept there will be costs associated with climate change.

The retailer plans to test energy efficient thermal technologies in China, India, and Vietnam.

Hellstrom said, "The low carbon technology is already here. You don't have to talk about innovations - you just need to test them out first in this industry."

Kristina Liljas is the senior director for sustainable finance and engagement of AII. She said that if brands backed their goals with budgets, they would be able to establish better relationships with suppliers.

(source: Reuters)