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Brazil's robusta coffee producers push for quality despite rising prices and climate concerns

In the midst of the bustle and noise in a posh coffee shop located on Sao Paulo’s Oscar Freire Avenue a barista prepares an unusual espresso. The shot is extra creamy with a cocoa nib aroma, but lacks the acidity that distinguishes coffees made from arabica beans.

This premium espresso is 100% robusta, a bean that has been criticized in the coffee industry as a cheap filler more suited to instant coffee.

Marco Kerkmeester said that the coffee has a lot more chocolatey notes and makes a great crema. He also noted the appeal of a variety cheekily labelled "0% Arabica."

Changes on the Farm

Brazilian robusta producers are investing in the harvesting and drying of robusta beans to meet the demands of the most demanding customers. Brazil is the second largest robusta producer in the world after Vietnam, and also top arabica grower. A 2022 study revealed that due to drought and higher temperatures, more than three-quarters of Brazil’s best land suitable for growing arabica could be unsuitable for coffee by 2050.

Premium robusta beans are a great way to reduce the cost of espresso blends by using arabica, which is more expensive.

Lucas Venturim is a coffee grower from Espirito Santo, some 500 miles away, who grew the beans that went into the espresso at Oscar Freire. "He never accepted the notion that robusta is bad because it's robusta."

The Specialty Coffee Association, which is responsible for setting global standards in specialty coffee, has revised its course this year to make it more appealing to those who would like to grade arabica or robusta beans. Anyone trained to evaluate top-notch coffee can now accurately describe and award deserving brews regardless of species or bean type. Kim Ionescu is the chief strategy officer at SCA. She cited the growing demand for robusta coffee in Southeast Asia as an example. It seems that species should not be used to determine whether a coffee is a specialty or not.

SCA plans to update the vocabulary of descriptors for coffee flavor in 2026 to include characteristics associated with robusta such as aromatic spices.

Coffee shops in London and Berlin showcase the finer qualities of robusta. Brands such as Nguyen Coffee Supply have already made a name for themselves in the U.S.

Fires out, dryers in

Espirito Santo is home to the majority of Brazil's robusta, and has begun a transformation that puts quality above all else.

According to a presentation from the state agriculture secretary, which was seen by us, the state wants to produce 1.5 millions 60-kg bags each year of robusta specialty by 2032. This is up from just 10,000 today.

According to Jose Roberto Goncalves of Brazil's largest robusta cooperative, Cooabriel, this is about a 10th of the current state output. To achieve that, the best post-harvest techniques, now used by arabica producers in Brazil, must be adopted more widely.

Cooabriel participated in trade shows for specialty coffee around the globe.

Goncalves explained that Cooabriel teaches farmers how to use modern dryers, and sort the beans carefully, instead of drying them with fire.

Experts from the state-funded research agency Incaper, and the federal university IFES have reported a rise in farmers who want to certify their robusta beans as a higher-priced special grade.

Douglas Gonzaga de Sousa is the coordinator of the Center for Specialty Coffees of Espirita Santo.

More arabica farmers are now experimenting with robusta due to its growing popularity in Brazil and historically high yields when compared to arabica.

Michel Tesch is Espirito Santo’s Undersecretary for Rural Development. He said that the traffic was largely in one direction.

He said, "We do not have people who leave robusta to make arabica."

Cooabriel will expand its robusta nursery to Espirito Santo, increasing production from the current 2 million saplings annually to around 10 millions.

Prices are rising.

Marcio Ferreira is the director of national coffee exporter Cecafe. He said that the rising quality of Brazilian Robusta has led to higher prices and a stronger demand. Cecafe's data shows that the average price of Brazilian specialty robusta per bag has risen to $295 for a 60-kilogram bag, which is more than twice the price in 2021. The price of Brazilian robusta has risen by more than 80% to $4,370 per ton since 2021, according to Cecafe data.

Ferreira added that as roasters reduce the arabica content in espresso blends, they are openly highlighting the robusta characteristics.

Jordan Hooper is the head of green coffee trade at Sucafina.

He said that the original idea behind specialty robusta was "to compete with specialty Arabicica." "Now, it's more like: robusta is interesting by itself."

Natalia Ramos Braga said that Brazil was a hotbed of these tastes.

She said that people, particularly in Brazil, prefer coffees with a richer mouthfeel, and a bitterer finish. If someone wants more bitterness or a bigger body, robusta is the coffee for them. Reporting by Oliver Griffin, Alexandre Meneghini and Rod Nickel.

(source: Reuters)