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The heatwaves in China threaten to reduce the supply of 'hairy Crabs'

Xie and her family have had to endure the most hardships in the last three years, after more than a decade of cultivating "hairy claws", a Chinese delicacy renowned for its furry appearance.

The 34-year old woman, who was standing in front of tanks full of crabs prized for their golden roe and sweet flesh, said that the weather had been getting worse each year since 2022. She wrapped some of the crabs in straw before preparing them for her customers.

We've prepared ourselves mentally for these losses.

Xie, a farmer at Yangcheng Lake in Jiangsu province's eastern region, is one of the many farmers forced to find new ways to maintain the survival of crustaceans due to unusually high temperatures. Since 2022, the breeding cycle has been disrupted by longer than expected summers and abnormally high temperatures.

When exported in four-packs to Singapore, Japan and other countries, the Chinese mitten crabs can fetch hundreds of dollars.

"Those in agriculture are at mercy of the skies," said Xie. His community suffered losses last year due to the strongest typhoon that hit the east coast of China since 1949. The storm ripped out nets and closed down oxygenation systems.

Kenneth Leung is a marine environment specialist at City University of Hong Kong. He said that higher temperatures can have a triple effect on crabs. They slow their growth and reduce the oxygen content in the water, while also boosting the growth of bacteria.

The summer temperatures in Suzhou, a city famous for its delicious crabs, stayed above 30°C (86°F) until late October. This delayed their maturation.

Farmers begin the labor-intensive crab farming by growing the larvae of the crabs in ponds. After about a year, the crabs are then moved into fenced farms inside the lake to allow the creatures to shed their outer shells as they grow.

Xie stated that molting occurs five times between the end of March and the start of harvesting at the traditional end of September.

The longer summers can also cause crabs to die from heat, as they lose their shells. Xie reported that in 2022 farmers poured blocks of ice directly into the water.

As early as July, some of the hottest and longest summers of eastern China in the past three years brought temperatures as high as 40 degrees C.

Weather officials reported in September that this summer's heat was the hottest China has experienced since 1961. The northern rains also were the longest they have been during the same time period. Scientists attribute these disruptions to climate change.

Leung suggested that selective breeding could be a solution. He recommended selecting crabs that are more tolerant of higher temperatures.

The authorities expect the lake's harvest to be 10,350 metric tonnes this year. This is roughly the same as previous years, with the exception of 9,900 tons in last year's case, when the typhoon struck.

Xie said that crab farmers might pray for better weather in the future, but they are aware they have limited control.

We can only see if the hairy crabs can adapt. If they cannot, this industry may be eliminated. We cannot do anything. Clarence Fernandez, Clarence Goh, and Brenda Goh contributed to the reporting.

(source: Reuters)