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Small farmers in Mexico reap few benefits from the mezcal boom

Mezcal sales for small farmers fell by 80% in the past year

Mezcal producers are underpaid by the middlemen

Monoculture and pollution are harmful to biodiversity

By Diana Baptista

Ramirez is a 32-year-old third generation expert mezcal producer, or "palenquera", and the first female in her family who has worked in the industry. She had to overcome patriarchal standards that previously did not permit women to be involved in mezcal manufacturing.

She and other farmers now face falling mezcal price.

The growing international demand has allowed Palenqueras such as Ramirez, who cut, fermented and distilled the agave plants with expert skill to make mezcal their main source for income.

According to the Mexican Regulatory Council for the Quality of Mezcal, the demand for mezcal in Mexico has led to production volumes rising from 1 million litres per year in 2012 to up to 14 millions in 2022.

This boom mainly affected farmers in Oaxaca where 75% of the mezcal produced in 2024 was produced.

Small farmers struggle to survive due to the market saturation, and to intermediaries who purchase mezcal for low prices.

"Mezcal has dropped a lot in price." We are suffering because we can't sell it," said Ramirez. She shares a palenque (a traditional wooden structure in which agave is produced) with 20 other women in the Sola de Vega Community, located in southern Mexico.

Farmers who lack the financial resources to bottle and label their mezcal typically sell it to intermediaries. These people have the certifications and funds to do so.

Ramirez explained that farmers sell a litre mezcal to intermediaries for 350 pesos (19 dollars), who then bottle it and sell it at 1,500 pesos (80 dollars).

Ramirez stated that if consumers met the actual mezcal producers they would stop purchasing from middlemen (coyotes) who bottle it.

MIGRATION HUB

The local economy in this region of Oaxaca is dominated by tourism and remittances - money sent home from migrants living in the United States.

There are many mezcal farmers who welcome visitors to their palenques.

"When there's mezcal, there's development. "Without it, there's extreme poverty, migration, and crime," Eduardo Leon, Manager at Heifer International a non profit that builds community palenques, and helps women to enter the mezcal marketplace, said.

Jairo Rodriguez, a Zapotec indigenous farmer who shares a palenque with 10 other farmers, has been producing mezcal at his palenque for six years.

The mezcal is distilled using two ovens which emit a musky scent into the air.

He also finds that sales are down.

"We haven't sold everything we make for the past two year," said Rodriguez. He learned mezcal production from his grandfather.

Small farmers in Oaxaca used to supply Mexican and foreign companies with thousands of agave plants, which mature after seven to eight years.

Rodriguez stated that these companies have now built up their own reserves of Agave, resulting in a 80% decline in sales over the last year.

"We see an increase in immigration and a decrease in income." "People who were working happily in their palenques left to find economic alternatives for their family," Leon said.

Oaxaca is the main hub for migration to the United States. Data from the Ministry of Interior shows that more than 34,000 migrants left the state between 2015 and 2020.

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

The mezcal boom has also affected the biodiversity of Oaxaca, to the point that wild agave species are in danger.

After agave harvest, it takes years for the land to recover. This leads farmers to burn additional land to extend their crop.

The Agave plant is often planted in a way that causes soil erosion and landslides.

The Oaxaca Mountains are transformed by these practices, with agave farms causing balding patches of green.

Leon said that "the indiscriminate application of agrichemicals and the changing farming methods, as well as the increasing mezcal production have created serious environmental problems."

According to Leon, the production of a liter mezcal can require up to 25 liters water and 15 kilograms wood. This puts a lot of pressure on forests.

When wood supplies run out, wood from other communities is used, causing widespread deforestation.

Vinasses, a foul-smelling liquid waste produced by the fermentation and distillation process of agave plants, pollutes the land and the water around it.

The mezcal regulator's data shows that monoculture is a major problem. 85% of the mezcal produced by 2024 was made from espadin, an agave with straight, swordlike leaves.

The popular espadin, which is one of Mexico's 159 species agaves, has taken over the land where the wild agave could be grown and local food.

Leon stated that the growth of the agricultural border has led to many problems, including territory fragmentation and disruption of biological corridors.

Heifer International teaches farmers how to plant agave to help prevent soil erosion and retain moisture.

The organization has also developed a project that helps farmers diversify their crop by providing them with dragonfruit cacti. This increases their income.

(source: Reuters)