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The extreme heat is threatening Italy's Parmesan Heartland

Farmers in Italy's Emilia-Romagna used to open their barn windows at night to cool their cows during the summer.

As temperatures soar to new records, these windows are kept open 24 hours a day to protect cows and their milk. This is the basis of the centuries-old Parmigiano reggiano cheese production in the area.

Nicola Bertinelli is the president of the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium and also runs the dairy farm his family established in Parma, Italy, in 1895.

COSTS GO UP AS THE CHEESE AGE

When temperatures reach 40 degrees Celsius, cows will spend more time lying, eat less, and produce up to 10% less of their milk. Milk is one of only three ingredients in Parmigiano, along with salt and rennet.

Only five?provinces are allowed to produce authentic Parmigiano Reggiano, mainly in Emilia-Romagna, and the cows there must only be fed with grasses and hay.

Bertinelli told the 54-year-old that if it didn't rain grass wouldn't grow and hay couldn't be produced. It was also impossible to get the milk required to make cheese.

These extra cooling measures have sent energy costs skyrocketing.

Warehouse managers are also facing higher bills as cheese wheels are aged for at least a year, and sometimes even three years.

In the provinces Reggio Emilia, and Modena, the Magazzini Generali delle Tagliate unit of Credito Emiliano has two warehouses that store more than 500,000 Parmigiano Reggiano wheels worth over EUR300 million.

MGT Director Giancarlo R. Ravanetti stated that during this summer's heatwaves our daily energy consumption increased by approximately 30%.

He added that "to make our facilities energy efficient as possible, we improved our cooling systems, boilers and building insulation, and increased renewable energy generation."

"WE DON'T WANNA BE THE LAST GENERALITY TO EAT IT"

Bank of Parmigiano is the collective name for the climate-controlled warehouses in the region. Technology and tradition are intertwined behind their walls.

To eliminate defects, each wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano is subjected to a strict quality inspection. This includes X-ray scanning. Experts tap the cheese with small hammers to listen for any flaws.

Ravanetti stated that "the human factor is still key and the real strength of this entire process."

Paolo Ganzerli is the international sales director of?food group GranTerre. The company, which has a consolidated revenue in 2025 of EUR1.87billion, shares Ravanetti’s concern about increasing bills.

He said that if extreme events become more intense and last longer, they would have a negative impact on the quality and quantity of milk. But they would also lead to increased costs.

It's a big deal.

The Parmigiano Reggiano industry generates a revenue of approximately EUR4.5 billion ($5.15billion) per year. It employs thousands of people and is the engine for the local economy.

Exports will account for more than half of global sales of Parmigiano Reggiano in 2025. The United States is its biggest foreign market.

Ganzerli stated that Parmigiano Reggiano has been around for "more than 800 years."

"We don't wish to be the last to eat it." ($1 = 0.8744 euro) (Written by Sara Rossi and edited by Andrew Heavens).

(source: Reuters)