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Winemakers on the Greek island of Santorini try to adapt to heat, drought and extreme temperatures

Yiannis Boutaris, a winemaker on the Greek Island of Santorini gestures at a dried up 'kouloura vine' trained into a 'basket' shape to protect?grapes against the scorching summer sun. The plant survived for 90 years, but finally died from heat and drought. This plant's demise highlights the growing problem in Santorini where, between 2023-2025, low rainfall and searing heat have led to increased grape prices, reduced wine production, and intensified water concerns.

The lack of rain combined with the lack?of cultivation in the past couple of years led to the old vines dying, said Boutaris. His winery owns its vineyards and buys grapes from other vineyards including the one with the dying vines.

"We are adapting our vineyard to new circumstances, not abandoning tradition."

The Ancient Vinyards of Greece Try New Techniques

Boutaris is a sixth generation winemaker and runs the Domaine Sigalas Winery. It's now part of Kir-Yianni Family of Wineries. He's testing a pilot with local authorities and scientists. The project involves taking wastewater from hotels and homes to irrigate vines.

The practice, which is also used in California, could be more energy-efficient and sustainable than taking water from costly desalination plant. Boutaris also tests planting vines in rows instead of scattered as in the traditional method, to improve irrigation efficiency, and atmospheric water collection. The hydrogels capture moisture in the air and then convert it to water using heat from solar panels.

The Greek wine industry is at the center of a larger contest over land and water.

Farmers, hoteliers and swimming pool operators compete to get a piece of the shrinking water supply during the summer months when tourists flock to islands such as Santorini.

Santorini’s famed Assyrtiko vine production fell from 2,500 tons in 2022, to only 500 tons last season. Winemakers pay farmers 11 euros per kilogram, the same price as in Champagne. In the north of Greece, where it is cooler, a kilo costs just 80 cents. Stefanos Koundouras is a professor at Aristotle University, Thessaloniki. He said that Santorini had reached the limit of extreme conditions in 2023-2024. He claimed that temperatures had been the highest in 60 years. Koundouras warned that the wine industry could be less sustainable in Europe, especially?around Mediterranean if the climate continues to get hotter and dryer.

We are already seeing problems with the special character and quality of the wine." The winemaker Yiannis Papaeconomou plans to tap into the wastewater project in order to water his vines that are?6 years old.

He is also trying out other techniques, such as an irrigation system that water the vines from below the soil, rather than above the ground, in order to reduce evaporation. Also, he has trellised them, so they can receive more water.

He said: "We must adapt to a new way and find a solution." ($1 = 0.8772 euro) (Editing done by Edward McAllister & Kevin Liffey).

(source: Reuters)